The Burgundian pair

Thursday, August 1st, 2013

Once upon a time, in wine terms not so long ago, chardonnay and pinot noir were but pipe dreams for South African winemakers. Today, of theCape’s 100 093 hectares of vineyard, chardonnay accounts for just under 8 000 hectares, pinot noir 1 089 ha. Their impact is bigger than these relatively small plantings might suggest, as I was reminded at two recent tastings.

If there’s anyone who understands Méthode Cap Classique it’s Pieter ‘Bubbles’ Ferreira, Cellarmaster at Graham Beck since 1990 but involved with making sparkling wine in the traditional method since the early 1980s.

At what he described as ‘a long overdue tasting’ of the seven sparklers in the Graham Beck range, he admitted ‘we’re still in pursuit of the perfect bubble’. A reminder that wine is a journey rather than a destination.

There are several important phases in such pursuit: one, how the fruit is handled.  Thanks to 85% coming from Beck’s own farms in Robertson and Firgrove, there is only a short drive to the press in Robertson or Constantia, where the grapes arrive in perfect condition. The balance, from 12 other areas stretching from Darling up the West Coast to Stanford on the South Coast, adds complexity to the blend. Then the use of French oak barrels, made by a Champenois, bring their own dimension but only ever to the chardonnay and then never more than 5% will be new.

Blending the base wine and being able to envisage the final wine measures the true worth of any cellarmaster who makes sparkling wine in the traditional Champagne method. Ferreira can have up to 85 samples of chardonnay and pinot noir, the only varieties he employs, from which to blend; reserve wine will make up between 8% and 12%.

Ferreira’s blending skills become evident in his seven Cap Classiques, each with its own personality. My favourites this time were Brut NV, a fresher style but still with yeasty interest and a creamy mousse; the very pretty straw-pink Brut Rosé 2009, more evolved, complex and rich, yet soundly Brut; Blanc de Blancs 2009, still only a glimpse of the nuttiness that will increase in this 100% creamy chardonnay; and the polished Cuvée Clive 2007, a delicate, vibrant wine with creamy undertones. But an impressive showing all round.

I asked Pieter how he believes the South African Cap Classique category differs from others around the world. His answer? ‘Full of sunshine; let’s embrace it.’

Quality and individuality were also on show at Peter-Allan Finlayson’s ‘delayed launch’, as he described the tasting of Crystallum wines (his first vintage was 2007!).

He now crafts a pair of chardonnays and three pinots; our line-up was all 2012. The majority of his fruit comes from the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley; the Agnes Chardonnay contains a portion from Greyton, while the Clay Shales is from a single vineyard further up the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley road towards Caledon.

Finlayson, son of highly-reputed Peter from Bouchard Finlayson in the lower part of the valley, is creating as individualistic wines as his father. He is unusual in employing oak barrels from a single cooper, believing those from a range of coopers don’t necessarily add complexity. Both Agnes, the more accessible style, and Clay Shales, with its tighter, cooler feel, are expressive and have distinct personalities.

The pinots are even more intriguing in reflecting a sense of place. Fruit for the Cuvée Cinema is from the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, one of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley’s three wards; it’s a higher, cooler area than the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (home to Bouchard Finlayson), the source of fruit for the new Bona Fide.

The difference between this pair is marked: Cuvée Cinema is pale in hue, with a light, supple texture and lovely freshness; from the warmer, lower area, Bona Fide is darker, dense with great breadth and obvious structure without any over-extraction, and needing much longer to open.

Peter Max, a blend of fruit from both vineyards, slightly riper from the Cuvée Cinema source, is perfumed and already delicious.

Peter-Allan is but one winemaker who has not only got to grips with making pinot noir but also has an understanding of the characteristics of each site he deals with.

The Hemel-en-Aarde Valley is today recognised for setting an impressive standard for chardonnay and, especially, pinot noir. For this, much is owed to Tim Hamilton Russell, who died recently. He saw the valley’s potential for producing chardonnay and pinot noir worthy of competing on the world stage. Despite many bureaucratic difficulties in establishing Hamilton Russell Vineyards in the mid-1970s, this pioneer’s determination and belief has been vindicated. He will be remembered with gratitude by chardonnay and pinot noir producers and winelovers alike.

– Angela Lloyd